Field Trip: John Day Fossil Beds National Monument

A group of Oregon Nordic Club Columbia Gorge Chapter members decided to take a mid week excursion to John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, because we could. Actually, we've planned a number of hiking expeditions to tide us over until the next Nordic season begins. The website for the national monument, linked above, is pretty good for those who want more info. The National Monument is actually three separate units, about an hour's drive apart from each other. We planned to see one on Wednesday, one on Thursday, and if time permitted, one on the way home Friday.

Our band of 13 included Cindy and Tom in their Subaru, Jan and Skip in their pick up, Linda and Tom in their truck/fifth wheel, Jan and Fred in their campervan, Ray and Shelley in their Toyota camper, us with our pop-up tent camper and Ole in his Forester. We had quite a parade!

We took a leisurely route through The Dalles to Highway 19, south through Fossil and a number of very small towns, to our first main stop at the Sheep Rock Unit. There was a great visitor center with the usual educational displays, a rock lab where the technician was casting replicas of some fossils, and a video presentation that the ranger was delighted to show to the 13 of us, the most people she'd seen all week I think. We got our bearings, some of us headed out for some short hikes, a few others went fossil hunting in a public hunting area.


My first stop was the Thomas Condon Overlook Trail with Brindle, who had been waiting patiently for us to emerge from the Visitor Center. Lloyd and a few others were still immersing themselves in the geology and paleontology within. I took a few pictures, Brinnie got relief, and we made our way back down to the gang. The peak on the right is Sheep Rock.


We then rolled over to the Island in Time Trail into the Blue Basin. It was so pretty, the pictures don't do it justice. You will notice this picture has an ominous sky...on our way back to the car, with about a quarter mile to go, it began to rain and hail on us. For a minute there, I thought we'd gone through a time warp back to Texas. I believe it was my fault. I left my rain jacket in the car. Had I taken it along, I would not have needed it!

We made it to the Clyde Holliday campground, between Mt. Vernon and John Day. As we pulled in, it began to rain, hail, thunder and lightning. We waited for the deluge to pass before attempting to set up the tent. Several of our party rented the two teepees by the river rather than tent camp on soggy ground. For about $10 more a night than a camp site, you get a teepee, 4 sleeping cushions, a heater (key this time of year), and a load of firewood for the big campfire ring on the patio. And a huge picnic table. This was excellent, because we had a great gathering place for our communal dinners.



First night's dinner menu included happy hour cheese, crackers, pate, dips and chips, followed by spaghetti, sauce and meatballs, salad, garlic bread, ending up with assorted goodies for dessert. Also lots of wine and beer, of course.

We had a roaring campfire, Ole brought his guitar, and yes, I brought my ukelele. Having been fueled appropriately, I made it through my entire repertoire and then some, with Ole's help. The weather cooperated, the skies stayed clear and the moon was nearly full. We all sang our way to 'quiet time' at 10 pm, then moseyed back to our respective abodes to rest up for the next day.

After I made coffee and cleaned the dishes from the night before, we returned to the scene of the crime for breakfast. Jan made pancakes in the well ventilated teepee.


Jan Stewart brought bacon she'd cooked up in her van, others brought assorted fruits and I'd made several batches of muffins. We would not be starving on this trip.


Our agenda for Thursday included visiting the Painted Hill Unit. We condensed the group into four vehicles and hit the road. The views were spectacular.



We hiked the Painted Hills Overlook Trail


the Leaf Hill Trail, where thousands of leaf fossils have been found


and the Painted Cove, where a boardwalk allows you to get close up to the colorful claystone mounds.


Here is some nice contrast with the red and some sage.


The views were incredible, and colors changed with the light and passing clouds. In these next two pictures, look at how the greenish mound just left of center turns bright whe the cloud passes.

Everyone's cameras got good workouts! On the way out we saw antelope playing (no deer), so that called for a quick pull over!


Our last stop was the view area of Mascall Formation Overlook, and the Picture Gorge. Notice the road goes right into the gorge.


Before we knew it, we were back at the campground and hungry for dinner. We finished off the munchies, then dined on grilled chicken, sausages, salmon burgers, salad, beans, bread...Whatever everyone had left, basically. And the marshmallows I forgot to bring out the night before. I saved a bottle of Northshore Cellars Cherry Wine for the campfire, and let Ole have the solo stage with his fine guitar playing under a completely full moon. Didn't want to overdo the uke thing...

Even though the birds woke us up around 5 am Friday, our leisurely breakfast and pack up meant not enough time for us to hit the third unit, so we'll have to get that one next time. It would be a great place to bring a fishing pole and maybe go rafting as well...

Anyway, John Day Fossil Beds is a highly recommended destination. Go in the next month or so, before it gets too hot in the daytime, and while you can still see some pretty wildflowers along the way!